SURAT HISTORICAL PLACE : DUTCH CEMETERY

Introduction

The tombs in English, Dutch and Armenian cemeteries at Surat are reckoned among the most important historical monuments in the city. It is reported that there was so much competition between the Dutch and the English in Surat to impress upon the natives their importance and power that they put mausoleums instead of tomb stones. Many of these are so ridiculously large and ornamental resembling Muslim tombs rather than the ordinary tomb stones in Europe.

One of the tomb in the Dutch cemetery is quoted as unequalled among the structures of its kind (barring a few) in Europe. However, Mr. A.F. Bellasis who had given a detailed account of these monuments and their epitaphs in the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society of Bombay for January 1861 was evidently apprehensive that within another fifty years or so the majority of these monuments, totally uncared for as they were in his time, would disappear.

Thanks, however, to Lord Curzon's solicitude for India's historical monuments, and to the efforts of the Archaeological Survey of India, established forty years after Bellasis wrote and which has under its charge a legacy of monuments and archaeological sites of national importance that these cemeteries in Surat are declared as protected monuments. In-spite of this, majority of these monuments are showing the signs of serious deterioration and it is feared that if measures to conserve them are not expedited the city would loose its historic memorials of the past.

A brief description of the distinguished architectural style of the few of the important tombs in the English, Dutch and Armenian cemeteries along with their historical background is presented here.

The English Cemetery

The English cemetery which is situated outside the city-wall (which was known as 'Alampanah') near the Katargam Gate reminds the visitor eloquently of many a famous names in the historical narratives of the English factory at Surat who were the significant persons in the political history of the city. As per the "Revised List of Tombs and Monuments of Historical or Archaeological Interest in Bombay and other Parts of the Presidency" published in 1912 there were about 19 tombs in the English cemetery during that time, many of which are still existing. In addition to these, there is a large number of simpler structures, and inscription slabs-over the graves of less important persons. Few of the imposing monuments of this cemetery are described here.

The Dutch Cemetery

The Dutch as well as Armenian cemeteries at Surat are situated in a locality known as 'Gulam Falia' near the mail road leading to Katargam Gate. The Dutch tombs are of various sizes and shapes, but the one that excels all the rest in magnificence is the grandiose mausoleum of Baron Adrian Van Reede and, is described here in detail.

The Armenian Cemeteries

The Armenian cemetery is situated adjacent to that of the Dutch. Though, the graves in this cemetery, arc bearing a large number of inscription slabs they have no super-structures raised above them as is the case in the English and Dutch cemeteries. The oldest epitaph is the one of Armenian verse over the tombstone of a lady named Marinas, the wife of the priest Woksan, who was a crown to her husband, according to the proverbs of Solomon. The date of her death is mentioned as 1028 of the Armenian era ( Christian year 1579).

There is also a beautiful mortuary chapel, but there is no date showing the year of its construction. However, the same may be concluded from the tombstone over the grave which is inside this chapel, bearing the date 1695. Its Amenian inscription is rendered as under 

This is the tomb of Kalandar, the son of Phanoos Kalandar of Julfa, who departed this life on Saturday, the 6th day of March 1695.  

While nearly two hundred graves lie outside this chapel, it is the only tomb situated inside this building. It thus shows that the deceased must have belonged to a family of very high repute at Surat. He was the only son of Khwaja Phanoos Kalandar, an eminent merchant of Julfa and the acknowledged leader of the Armenian nationality in Persia and India. The records of the English East India Company in London also show that an important agreement between the company and the Armenian nation represented by this magnate, who is described as an Armenian merchant of eminency and an inhabitant of Isfahan in Persia was signed on 22 June 1688. It appears that the elder Phanoos settled down at Surat, and the body of his only son, who died there in 1695, was as a special privilege, in token of the high position held by his father, buried within the mortuary chapel in the Armenian cemetery in the city.